What a trip! Elizabeth Macquarie's journey to Sydney in 1809

While researching for a future blog post I've been reading Elizabeth Macquarie's journals that are held at Sydney's Macquarie University. Both Elizabeth and husband Lachlan Macquarie's diaries have been digitised and grouped into years for ease of searching.

Elizabeth Henrietta Campbell Macquarie, ca. 1819 - watercolour on ivory miniature.
Courtesy of the Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales
   http://digital.sl.nsw.gov.au/delivery/DeliveryManagerServlet?embedded=true&toolbar=false&dps_pid=IE3193357

Their ship Dromedary departed Portsmouth, England on 22 May 1809, stopping along the way at the Island of Madiera, the Cabo Verde islands off the west coast of Africa, Rio de Janeiro, and Cape Town, arriving in Sydney Cove on 28 Dec 1809, a journey of 220 days. Also on board was my ancestor's husband, Joseph Bigge, who was their coachman and groom, earning him the nickname 'Joe the Coachman'.

During this voyage Elizabeth suffered a few shocks, and encountered some interesting situations.
Only two days into their journey she thought they were being chased by two pirate ships which "occasion'd much uneasiness to me & the other Ladies". These ships turned out to be friendly, but I'm sure Elizabeth was wondering what she had let herself in for.

On 4th June she saw three sailors drown from the Hindostan due to the Captain of that ship sending out a smaller boat into rough seas to retrieve their letters and packets from the frigate Magicienne.

On 18th June while anchored at Madiera Elizabeth toured around the town and went by chance into a church where a young woman was taking the veil. She describes it like this:

A second ceremony took place at the door of the convent, but the crowd was so great that I could not see it, at this moment there was a noise made by a Person pressing forward thro' the mob, she was soon known to be the Mother of the young woman, there was room made for her to pass, & she arrived at the spot where her Daughter stood, to take her last embrace! -- till that moment the Nun supported herself, but the sight of her Mother totally overcame her; her head fell on her breast, & she sob'd aloud in an agony of grief; she was then hurried forward, & I saw her walk on follow'd by those dreadful looking black nuns, who threw rose leaves at her. ---I saw her no more! but I understood that her head was immediately to be shaved, she had a great quantity of fine hair, and I saw the dress carried in which she was to change for that she had on, it was an extreme coarse brown heavy stuff, which I suppose she was to wear till she took the black veil. ---I cannot say that I ever felt so much distress at the fate of a stranger, as I did on this occasion; the impression was not that I could not hear the subject mention'd without considerable emotion for sometime after. I hope her situation does not feel to her, as it appear'd to me. 

Elizabeth found it quite distressing to be on board a slave ship for a while from Bengola to Rio de Janeiro.

[O]n the third of August we boarded a Portuguese Brigg [sic] from Bengola to Rio Janiero [sic] laden with female slaves, this was a more hazardous service than we had any idea of, the officers found on getting on board that an infectious fever prevail'd among them, to which the Captain and a great number of the slaves had fallen victims -- to put a stop if possible to the complaint, they had resorted to a precaution at which humanity shudders, namely, that of throwing the unfortunate slaves overboard as soon as they were taken ill. 

Soon afterward she watched a seaman fall overboard. Thankfully he was rescued.

During this voyage one day when the Ship was going at eight knots an hour, a sea man fell overboard -- he fell over the poop & past our Cabbin [sic] window, I saw something fall, but had no idea it was a man till I hear'd him cry out, which he did in the most disturbing manner. Col^l.. Macquarie ran forward and encouraged him by every means in his power to keep a hold which he had fortunately caught of a fishing line, which hung over the stern -- the Ship was put about, and a Boat lower'd, by which the man was saved.

This next seaman didn't fare so well:

[A]bout the end of the month we had a great deal of rain, and on the night of the 31^st.. our Cabin was quite in a float; owing to a leak in the Deck. George Tiers having gone to bed, a Carpenter Charles Tonkins was sent to caulk it, I observed as he pass'd me what a very pleasant handsome looking man he was; after doing what he could to the leak he said that for want of materials he could not do it completely that night, but that he should finish it in the morning. --- Poor young man he little knew that that morrow, was to be the last he should ever see in this world. The Soldiers suffer'd much inconvenience from some of the ports taking in water, it was blowing pretty hard, and the Ship was going 9 knots, when Charles Tonkins went over the side of the Ship unattended & unobserved by any person, to caulk in those ports; a service which might have been perform'd with perfect safety if the man had been properly attended, one of the officers in the gun room hear'd a cry, & saw the poor young man fall into the sea [---] he was never seen again ---The Ship was brought to, a boat was sent from this ship, & one from the Hindostan but they could not find him. [T]his melancholy accident shock'd us all very much; next day (as is always the custom on board Ship,) there was a sale of his effects & his papers were examined by the Captain; he found a great many letters from a young woman who was engaged to him, which in my opinion contain'd more pure affection, express'd in a more natural & affecting manner than any I ever read; there were also copies of some of his in return, which were also very interesting -- what her sufferings will be when she hears of this event it is dreadful to think on. ---The man who fell overboard sometime ago might really have lost his life owing to a joke, as when Cap^t.. P. saw the Ship in confusion, & the men busy lowering the boat, he ask'd what the matter was, & if any one had fallen; the Sailors call'd out Sir, Nobody has fallen overboard; that being the name he went by in the Ship, tho' known to Cap^tn.. P. by his proper name of John Smith.

On 31st October after leaving Cape Town another sailor died in sad circumstances:

On the 31^st.. in the evening Col^l.. M. & I were walking on Deck when Thomas Jackson fell from the fore top Mast Rigging on the Forecastle, and fractured his skull; which occasion'd his immediate death. [H]e was a very active good temper'd young Man, and a great favorite with the Sailors; they were much affected with the accident, & some of them shed tears. This young Man had been rather addicted to drink, when Col^l.. M. & Cap^tn.. P. passed him at quarters the Captn.. said I dont think you are quite as you should be. [H]e seem'd offended, & said, you always look hard at me Sir. [I]t is supposed from this circumstance that his being in drink occasion'd this dreadful accident. [N]ext morning his Body was committed to the deep.

Curiously, on 5th November at 11 o'clock at night a large fire ball was seen not far off, passing in a S. W. direction

I'd love to know what this was!

Ten days later yet another sailor lost his life:

[A]t 2 o'clock this day the Commodore hove to, & made the Signal for a Man overboard; we lay to, but did not go to him; he had his boats out for two hours but to no effect, the Man was unfortunately drown'd — he was one of the best Seamen Captain Pascoe had; it was his birth day, the other sailors had treated him to a share of their Grog on the occasion he went to his station on the yard arm to look out in a state of intoxication, & fell asleep; another man was half way up to releive [sic] him when he fell. — This disturbing accident detain'd us three hours during which time the favorable wind lasted but shortly after deserted us. 

Elizabeth had such an eventful voyage to an unknown future as the wife of the Governor to New South Wales.